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Saturday, August 19, 2017

Minnesota's cataclysmic geographic history hidden in its western border

The shape of the state of Minnesota is familiar to any American kid who spent hours learning the states and state capitals in grade school.  As you might expect from a state also known as the 'Land of Ten Thousand Lakes', water plays a big part in its boundaries.

Minnesota's northern boundary was created by the Treaty of Paris of 1783 when Great Britain recognized United States' independence. The boundary would run from Lake Superior by an all-water route to the northwest point of Lake of the Woods then proceed due west to the Mississippi River, which at the time formed the western boundary of the United States.

Unfortunately the signers of this treaty didn't realize that the Mississippi River ended south of the Lake of the Woods so in the Treaty of 1818 they fixed the international border at the 49th degree parallel.

The eastern border is follows the Mississippi River north to until veers east along the St. Croix river and then due north to the western edge of Lake Superior.

The southern border was much easier following a straight line between itself and Iowa at 43º 30′ N.


The western border looks as boring as southern border at first glance.  It goes straight north from its border with Iowa then follows the Red River north to Canada.  

The thing that interested me was seeing apparent connection between the Mississippi River and Red River.  The river that connects them on the map above is the Minnesota River but that confused me as I knew the Red River flowed north to Lake Winnipeg then into the Nelson River and eventually into the Hudson Bay.

That really confused me.  Could you take a canoe and paddle south from Hudson Bay, along the Nelson River, through Lake Winnipeg, along the Red River to the Minnesota, then to the Mississippi and eventually into the Gulf of Mexico?

That seemed impossible as everyone knows that a river can't flow in two directions at the same time.  As I looked for an answer on Google Maps I struggled to find where one river stopped and the other began.  They seemed to be one continous river.

The answer is actually in the two maps above but I needed to do more research before I figured it out.  One thing that started to clear things things up for me was Google Maps.  That tool is a godsend if you are curious about topographic detail in an area.  The place where the rivers met was in Browns Valley, Minnesota but seeing that didn't give much insight to answer my question.

Traverse Gap

It did answer my question about the canoe.  You can paddle from Hudson bay all the way to the Gulf of Mexico as long as you are willing to do a short 'traverse' in Browns Valley.

As you can see in the map above, Lake Traverse (part of the Red River watershed) is at the top of the map above and the Little Minnesota River is near the bottom.  The two water sources are separated by less than a mile.  If you are observant you might also see something else on the map that interested me a lot more which relates to the title of this article.

Here are a couple more maps of the Red River (and tributaries) leading to Browns Valley.  Each map is further south and closer to Traverse Gap.  See if you notice something odd.


Red River in Georgetown MN near Fargo, ND (90 Miles North of Browns Valley)
Red River Tributary in White Rock, SD (25 Miles North of Browns Valley)
Lake Traverse (Just north of Browns Valley)

To give you a little perspective, the above images are approximately 2 miles x 2 miles (except Traverse Lake).  Did you noticed anything strange?  Did you notice the narrow deep cut valley that broadens the closer you get to Browns Valley?

The reason is more apparent as you move south past Browns Valley.  Here's screen captures of the Minnesota River (and tributaries) to the south.




Minnesota River near Big Stone City, South Dakota (28 Miles south of Browns Valley, MN)
Minnesota River at Morton, Minnesota (120 Miles Southeast of Browns Valley, MN)
Minnesota River just west of Mankato, Minnesota (170 Miles Southeast of Browns Valley, MN)


Do you see it now?

The Red River maps north of Browns Valley are approximately the same perspective as the ones south on the Minnesota River.

I will give a hint.  The valley south of Browns Valley is much wider than the current Minnesota River could ever carve.  If you want to explore yourself you can goto this Google Maps link to see for yourself as it is hard to miss once you move the map around the screen.

Of course that does little to answer the question unless you already have a good understanding of North American geologic history.

Most Americans know Minnesota's nickname is the Land of Ten Thousand Lakes and for good reason.  The official count of their lakes as published by the state is 11,842 lakes greater than 10 acres in size.  The only state with more is Alaska.  

Lakes are usually formed in following ways - 
  • Tectonic - Movement of tectonic plates trapping an ancient ocean (Dead Sea, Great Salt Lake)
  • Volcanic - Dormant/inactive volcano leaves behind a caldera and fills with water (Crater Lake)
  • Fluvial - Created by running water usually left behind by rivers that change directions
  • Landslide - Earthquake moves land to dam water
  • Glacial - Glaciers carve the land leaving behind gouges which fill with water (???)
Lakes have a life cycle just like any other geologic feature.  Given enough time, all lakes will disappear as geologic activity along with sediments and organic materials cause them to turn into marshland and eventually disappear.  Given that lakes are continually disappearing, a location with a numerous lakes must have had a recent event to allow them to form all at once.  In fact there is only one thing that can create the number of lakes we see in Minnesota.

Glaciers.  More to the point, the Laurentide Ice Sheet.  

Maximum extent of the last ice age
 around 21,000 years ago
Glaciers are the answer to most questions when speaking to the geology of the Northern United States.  As you can see quite plainly in the graphic to the right, the extent of the glaciers created the current path of the Missouri River.

Anyone that has visited Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois can clearly see a difference between the northern and southern portion of those states.  The northern parts of those states are flat with rolling hills ; the south is quite hilly.  That's all due to glaciers.

Unimaginably huge ice sheets covering millions of square miles and thousands of feet tall moved south out of Canada at the beginning of the last ice age starting about 40,000 years ago reaching its maximum extent similar to picture to the right about 21,000 years ago.  As the planet warmed, the ice sheets stopped their march south then started to retreat.  As you might imagine it takes a while to melt ice over a mile thick.

One thing I never considered is what happens to all the water after it melts.  At first, water from the melting ice sheet flowed south to existing rivers in the Ohio and Mississippi river valleys.  The problem occurred when the glaciers melted to the other side of the continental divide.


This is a great map of North America that shows our current continental divides, i.e. where every drop of water will eventually end up assume it doesn't evaporate.  Rainfall east of the yellow line in the Eastern United States ends up flowing into the Atlantic Ocean.  East of the red line and south of the green line ends up in the Gulf of Mexico.  Water north of the green line and south of the blue line ends up in Hudson Bay.
Ancient Glacial River Warren

Have you seen the problem?

As the ice sheets melted and retreated over the Laurentian (green) continental divide, the water had no place to go.  A literal mountain of ice blocked its normal path to Hudson Bay.

Do you see the green line crossing a familiar point on western border of Minnesota on the map above?

Around 12,000 years ago, the water continued to melt and a small lake formed on the Hudson Bay side of the continental divide.  As the warming continued, water topped the lowest point of the Laurentide continental divide at Browns Valley causing a rush of water to scour the Minnesota River valley for hundreds of miles and then do the same thing to the Mississippi River for another hundred miles.  If you take another look at the google maps above or at this link, it is easy to see the damage done to the terrain thousands of years later.

This paper from Michigan State goes into much more detail on the deluge, Glacial Lake Warren, and Lake Agassiz than I ever could hope to match.  Take a look if you are interested in a deeper dive on the subject.

Seeing the maps made me wonder as some some theorize that the first Native Americans made their way into Minnesota soon after the glaciers melted.  That begs the question.
  • Were people living along the Minnesota river when it first flowed down the valley?  
  • What about further down the Mississippi?  
  • What must these people have thought as a small river quickly transformed into a maelstrom a mile wide?
I would imagine the water flow would slow every winter than return with a vengeance in the spring and summer melts.  I don't think many other geologic events could ever top this annual spectacle.

Scientists are not sure exactly how long Glacial River Warren (the name geologist gave to the widened Minnesota river) ran but the best estimates it continued off and on for about 2,000 years until about 9,400 years ago.  A combination of accumulated silt in the Red River Valley and other outlets to the Mississippi and the Great Lakes caused the river flow to stop completely.

As the ice sheet melted further it created a massive lake - Lake Agissiz.  At one point this lake was the largest fresh water lake in the world, larger than all the Great Lakes put together, stretching from Minnesota almost to Hudson Bay.  

As the earth's crust slowly rebounded after the weight of the ice was gone, the land slowly rose causing most of Lake Agissiz to disappear but it is not gone completely.  Lake Winnipeg is the remnant of a mighty ancient lake that once carved a river valley.

Who said geology wasn't fun?

Saturday, August 12, 2017

What should we do about the Statues and Flags of the Confederacy?

This weekend, a group of likeminded men gathered to protest the removal of a statue of Robert E. Lee which has stood in Lee Park in Charlottesville, VA since 1924.  I always get nervous when I hear about changing memorials as sometimes it can do more harm than any well-intentioned good.  Since I always try to get both sides of a story before making a decision, I decided to do a little research on this issue.

Paul Goodloe McIntire
The story of the statue starts with one man, Paul Goodloe McIntire.  McIntire was born in Charlottesville in 1860 and attended the University of Virginia for one year in 1878 before going to Chicago to make his fortune.  He started working as coffee trader, soon making enough money to purchase a seat on the Chicago Stock Exchange and did well enough there to move to New York and purchase a seat on the New York Stock Exchange.  He retired a wealthy man in 1918.

Like many of that era, McIntire actively worked to give away his fortune in good deeds, the most generous a grant of $200,000 that established the University of Virginia's business school. He also endowed Virginia's Chair for the Professor of Fine Arts ensuring, "the University will see its way clear to offer many lectures upon the subject of art and music, so that the people will appreciate more than ever before that the University belongs to them; and that it exists for them." The University of Virginia's Department of Art and Department of Music are named for him as a result.

He made many other donations. The McIntire Amphetheatre came from him. He helped build a part of the university's hospital. He donated money to the school to help in the study of psychiatry and of cancer. He helped build Charlotteville's public library. He gave the money for a concert series, donated rare books and art collections. In other words, from his Paul Goodloe McIntire's wiki, he sounds nothing like the man I imagined when I first heard about the statue controversy.

The idea of creating public space in city planning has been around forever but it really took off in the United States with the completion of New York's Central Park in 1873. Every city of note moved to copy something similar and McIntire decided to do something for Charlotteville once he retired. Ultimately he created five parks for the city - Lee, Jackson, Belmont, Washington, and McIntire.

Statue of Robert E. Lee in
Charlotteville, Va
McIntire also commissioned four statues of men from Virginia's past and donated them to the city. The one of Robert E Lee was put in Lee Park (recently renamed Emancipation Park). Stonewall Jackson was put in Jackson Park (recently renamed Justice Park). George Rogers Clark currently sits in Monument Square. The one of Merriwether Lewis and William Clark sits downtown in the former site of Midway Park.

I expected to see examples of Confederate jingoism when I looked into the building process of the Robert E Lee statue but could find little beyond technical details. I did find irony in the last line in the statue's nomination to the National Registered Landmarks when it was filed in 1997.
"Thus the Robert Edward Lee sculpture remains undisturbed in its original location. Sentiment in Charlottesville will undoubtedly keep it there, for the monument is a unique memorial to the eminent Confederate hero of all...."
The trouble is with the last part of the application though I'm sure the author had no ill intent. She was trying to get a statue honored. There is no doubt Lee is larger than life. If you ask a hundred people to name the best Confederate general in the Civil War, ninety-nine of them will say Robert E Lee. He was brave, audacious, and cared for his men. He won most of his battles, the notable exception being Gettysburg, and in turn made each Union general that faced him look foolish in comparison.

Regarding slavery, Lee once made the statement to his wife that:
"In this enlightened age, there are few I believe, but what will acknowledge, that slavery as an institution, is a moral &; political evil in any Country."
Lee was a man of dichotomies.  Lee's father-in-law instructed his slaves to be freed upon his death but when Lee's wife received her inheritance, Robert held off because he knew family would lose the farm without the cheap labor. You see this happening to many families in the south of this time.

Thomas Jefferson
Charlottesville's most famous citizen is certainly Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States.  Among his greatest accomplishments in office include directing the founding of the United States Military Academy at West Point, greatly expanding the territory of the country by purchasing the Louisiana Territory, and sending Lewis & Clark to explore this new land.

Jefferson is also famous as the country's first Secretary of State and as an ambassador to France during the Revolutionary War.  He founded the University of Virginia after he left office yet his most enduring legacy might be the words he penned in the Declaration of Independence and immortal phrase "all men are created equal".  Yet even Jefferson didn't free his slaves until after his death. Many men of the time knew slavery was wrong yet they passed the problem to the next generation, unwilling or unable to face the financial burden of life without slavery.

Robert E. Lee too was a man of his times.  In the same letter quoted above he said:
"The blacks are immeasurably better off here than in Africa, morally, socially &; physically. The painful discipline they are undergoing, is necessary for their instruction as a race, &; I hope will prepare &; lead them to better things. How long their subjugation may be necessary is known &; ordered by a wise Merciful Providence."
Consider the fact that these words were written by a man who led other men in a Civil War to prolong the institution of slavery.  It makes you wonder.  How could a man who equate slavery as an evil actively work to prolong that evil?  Put in the best light, Lee practiced self-deception to make himself feel better for doing something he knew was wrong. In the worst light, Lee was a sociopath concerning slavery, caring little for the suffering and working to see the bondage continue.  I personally choose to believe the former as I think Lee was a complex yet caring man but I understand how others feel nothing but hatred for the man and his legacy.

Statue of Robert E. Lee at Gettysburg
Once the war ended, Lee became more symbol than man. He retired to become president of Washington College (now Washington &; Lee) in Lexington, VA, the post-war epitome of an ideal southern gentlemen. The South needed a symbol and you couldn't invent a better candidate than Robert E Lee. Cities, schools, park, and roads were named in his honor. Statues were cast in his likeness all over the South.

I rarely ever paused in my younger years to consider is how the offspring of slaves must feel when they see these statues. I'm sure I had an ancestor or two that was a slave because slavery was rampant in the ancient world.  The difference is the public memory of that time has long since passed from consciousness. There is nothing about me that tells anyone that once upon a time, my ancestors were slaves of Romans or Greeks or Persians. That is not true of African-Americans. The history of America is literally written into their skin and the effects are still with us 150 years later. Poverty, poor education, drug use, violence, crime, prison, police brutality, housing. African-Americans struggle compared to whites in all these areas. Just like in Robert E Lee's time, we all are part to blame for this complex issue despite the fact the underlying problem originated long before any of us were ever born. It is hard to see a way out and while I hope it gets fixed in my lifetime, I'm not hopeful based on the rising hatred in our political discourse.

One thing we all can do is be a little more observant and that's leads back to the controversy of Lee's statue in Charlottesville. A simple start for dealing with Civil War statues could be this simple.
  • Did the person live there? 
  • Did the person fight a battle there? 
We can not and should not forget the past. Robert E Lee and the Confederacy existed and needs to be remembered if for no other reason than to remember the struggle this country fought to free itself from something so vile. Lee did not live in Charlottesville and never fought a battle in Charlottesville. There's no reasonable justification to have a statue of him on public land in Charlotteville and it should be taken down.

That's not to say there aren't places where statues of Lee make sense.

If you take Interstate 64 west from Charlottesville you eventually come to Lexington and the college where Lee lived in peaceful retirement after the war. That's a great spot for a statue which is why they already have a couple. There's also one of of him at the spot near Gettysburg (shown above) where he watched Pickett's men in their doomed charge.

The Civil War changed the way American's thought of their country, taking it from a collection of individual states into one single country.  The Battle of Gettysburg and Lincoln's subsequent speech were the forges that helped move the country in a 'new birth of freedom' and everyone should visit the battlefield at least once in their lives.  Standing next to the Lee Statue, you will feel a palpable sadness imagining lines of Confederates moving into a hopeless charge against a hill lined with Union troops.  It is this spot that effectively ended the hopes of the Confederacy and with it, the institution of slavery.

1st Flag of the Confederate
States of America
The Lee statue belongs at Gettysburg and so does the Confederate battle flag.  People sometimes forget the 'Stars and Bars' many racists use to display their hate is not the actual Confederate flag.  It is the Confederate battle flag and while it should not be displayed on public land anywhere else, it should be OK to display it on a Civil War battlefield.  Displaying it on the battlefield helps to remember the sacrifice this country endured to rid itself of slavery.  Displaying it anywhere else is insensitive and racist. It should be called out as such.

If we followed common sense rules, the country can make sure it is not ignoring its past while also moving forward to a better future.  It would ensure the children of slaves are not surrounded by symbols of hatred but the country's history would be freely available for anyone that cares to visit battlefields or birthplaces.

I heard someone the other days say it best - taking down Confederate monuments is not erasing history.  It is declaring that some parts of history belong in a museum, not on a pedestal.  We shouldn't make this any harder than it needs to be. If every city in America did this we could move on to the next big thing because the other items on the list to end racism aren't nearly this easy.

Sunday, May 07, 2017

DirecTV & Newton's Cannon

Have you ever wondered why your satellite dish doesn't need fancy tracking software to get a constant signal (assuming no rain😊)?  Also, why do you need to always point your dish to the south?

These may seem like difficult questions but the answer is quite simple once you understand Newton's Cannon (images below are from this link).